Where to eat in Paris: what to order and where to book
Paris eats well at every price, but only if you avoid the tourist streets. The best meals are in neighborhood bistros, bakeries and market stalls, and the city keeps firm meal times: lunch from noon, dinner from 7.30pm. Book for dinner, walk in for lunch, and order the plat du jour wherever there is one.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The Marais and Saint-Germain for bistros, the 10th arrondissement for newer places, and Rue Cler for lunch.
- Order this
- Steak frites, onion soup, a croque monsieur, a buttery croissant and a baguette sandwich from a bakery.
- When to eat
- Lunch from noon to 2pm, dinner from 7.30pm. Many kitchens stop between 2.30pm and 7pm.
- Book or walk in
- Book dinner, especially at weekends. Lunch is easy to walk into, and the set lunch is the best value.
- Tipping
- Service is included. Leave a few euros for good service, or round up.
What to eat in Paris
- Steak fritesA thin steak with chips and pepper or béarnaise sauce. It appears in nearly every bistro.
- Soupe à l'oignonOnion soup with melted cheese on toast. Best in winter and in a place with a real stockpot.
- Croissant and baguetteBuy a croissant from a boulangerie in the morning, and a baguette sandwich for lunch.
- Croque monsieurA grilled ham and cheese sandwich, found in cafes all day.
- Duck confitSlow-cooked duck leg with potatoes. A classic of Parisian bistros.
- Cheese courseAsk for a plate of three cheeses after the main course. It is normal and good value.
- Éclair and macaronsChoose a pâtisserie over a tourist shop, and buy one or two.
- CrêpesA Breton import near Montparnasse, best eaten sweet with butter and sugar.
Where to eat in Paris, by neighborhood
The Marais
Falafel on Rue des Rosiers, old bistros and modern restaurants, with a lot of choice and crowds at the weekend.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Classic cafes and brasseries, plus bakeries and wine bars on the side streets.
10th arrondissement and Canal Saint-Martin
Newer, cheaper restaurants, wine bars and good coffee. A good area for dinner.
Rue Cler and the 7th
A market street for picnic food, good for lunch near the Eiffel Tower.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Bouillon Chartier
€Brasserie · Grands Boulevards
OrderSteak frites or the plat du jour
A big, old dining hall with fast service and low prices. Expect a queue at peak hours.
- Book
- Walk in, no bookings at the main hall
Confirmed open: parisjetaime.com
-
Le Comptoir du Relais
€€€Bistro · Saint-Germain-des-Prés
OrderThe set menu at dinner
A small, long-running bistro with a strong reputation for bistro cooking.
- Book
- Walk in and expect a queue
Confirmed open: hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com
-
Breizh Café
€€Crêperie · Le Marais
OrderA buckwheat galette with cider
A modern take on Breton crêpes with good ingredients.
- Book
- Book for dinner
Confirmed open: breizhcafe.com
-
Chez L'Ami Jean
€€€Bistro · 7th arrondissement
OrderThe Basque-style set menu
A lively bistro with big plates and loud conversation.
- Book
- Book well ahead
- Closed
- Sunday and Monday
Confirmed open: parisjetaime.com
-
Café de Flore
€€€Café · Saint-Germain-des-Prés
OrderA coffee or a croque monsieur
A historic cafe known for its terrace. Pricey, so come for the setting.
- Book
- Walk in, no bookings
Confirmed open: parisjetaime.com
Food markets in Paris
- Marché d'AligreFruit, vegetables, cheese and a covered hall, plus a flea market in the square.Tuesday to Sunday mornings, closed MondaySource: marches-de-france.fr
- Marché BastilleOne of the largest open-air food markets, with produce, cheese and cooked food.Thursday and Sunday morningsSource: parisjetaime.com
How Paris eats
- Meal timesLunch runs from noon to 2pm, dinner from 7.30pm. Kitchens close in between.
- TippingService is included in the bill. Round up or leave a few euros for good service.
- ReservationsBook dinner, especially from Thursday to Saturday. Lunch is easier.
- Bread and waterBread is free. Ask for a carafe d'eau, which is free tap water.
Signs of a place to walk past
Menus with photographs of the dishes on the pavement.
A server outside calling people in to eat.
Restaurants on the main streets by the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and Notre-Dame with menus in six languages.
Anywhere with a very long list of dishes, which usually means frozen food.
Eating in Paris: questions people ask
What food is Paris known for?
Steak frites, onion soup, croissants, baguettes, duck confit, cheese and pastries. Most are best from a neighborhood place.
Do I need to book restaurants in Paris?
For dinner, yes, especially on Thursday to Saturday. Lunch is often fine without a booking.
What time do restaurants open in Paris?
Lunch from noon and dinner from 7.30pm. Brasseries and cafes serve food all day.
Is it rude not to tip in Paris?
No. Service is included, though leaving a few euros for good service is normal.
Where can I eat cheaply in Paris?
Bakeries, bouillons such as Chartier, and set lunches. Lunch menus cost much less than dinner.
What should I order at a Paris bistro?
The plat du jour, or steak frites. Finish with the cheese or a dessert of the day.