Where to eat in Lisbon: what to order and where
Lisbon eats seafood, grilled fish, salt cod and custard tarts. Order the pastel de nata warm, and book or queue early for the seafood houses, which fill by seven in the evening. For lunch, walk into a tasca and ask what is cooking that day.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- Chiado and Baixa for pastry, Almirante Reis for seafood, Belém for the original tart.
- Order this
- A warm pastel de nata, grilled sardines in summer, and bacalhau.
- When to eat
- Lunch from 12:30, dinner from 19:30. Kitchens often close between meals.
- Book or walk in
- Book for dinner. Pastry shops and food halls take walk-ins.
- Tipping
- Tipping is optional. Rounding up or leaving 5 to 10 percent is welcome.
What to eat in Lisbon
- Pastel de nataA custard tart in flaky pastry, eaten warm with cinnamon. The original recipe is from Belém.
- BacalhauSalt cod, cooked in hundreds of ways. Bacalhau à Brás is shredded with egg and potato.
- Sardinhas assadasGrilled sardines, eaten whole with bread, mainly in summer.
- Amêijoas à Bulhão PatoClams in garlic, coriander and white wine. Mop up with bread.
- BifanaA pork sandwich with garlic and spices. A cheap lunch.
- GinjinhaA cherry liqueur, drunk in small cups at kiosks near Rossio.
Where to eat in Lisbon, by neighborhood
Baixa and Chiado
The central grid has pastry shops, tascas and old cafes. Prices drop a few streets from the squares.
Alfama
Small tascas under the castle, many with fado. Look for places with a short menu.
Almirante Reis and Anjos
A less visited area to the north, with seafood houses and cheaper lunch menus.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Pastéis de Belém
€Pastry shop · Belém
OrderA warm pastel de Belém with cinnamon
The original home of the tart, in business since the 1830s. The queue moves fast, and the cafe rooms behind the counter are bigger than they look.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: pasteisdebelem.pt
-
Cervejaria Ramiro
€€€Seafood restaurant · Almirante Reis
OrderTiger prawns, clams and a steak sandwich to finish
Open since 1956 and often busy, with tiled walls and a seafood display. Order by weight.
- Book
- Arrive early or join the queue
- Closed
- Monday
Confirmed open: cervejariaramiro.com
-
Manteigaria
€Pastry shop · Chiado
OrderA warm pastel de nata and a coffee
A modern bakery that bakes tarts in view of the counter. The Rua do Loreto shop is the original.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: manteigaria.com
-
Time Out Market Lisboa
€€Food hall · Cais do Sodré
OrderA plate from a stall of your choice
A hall of Lisbon chefs and food stalls in the Ribeira market. Good for a first taste, if you avoid peak times.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: timeout.com
Food markets in Lisbon
- Time Out Market LisboaA food hall with stalls from local chefs, in the Mercado da Ribeira at Cais do Sodré.Daily; Sunday to Wednesday 10:00 to midnight, Thursday to Saturday 10:00 to 02:00Source: timeout.com
How Lisbon eats
- Meal timesLunch is from 12:30 and dinner from 19:30, and many kitchens close between meals.
- CouvertBread, olives and cheese on the table are charged if you eat them. Send back what you do not want.
- TippingTipping is optional. Round up or leave 5 to 10 percent.
- CoffeeOrder a bica for an espresso or a galão for a milky coffee.
Signs of a place to walk past
Menus with photos and flags outside the door.
Touts in the street on Rua Augusta.
Pastéis de nata displayed under heat lamps for hours.
Eating in Lisbon: questions people ask
What food is Lisbon known for?
Pastéis de nata, grilled sardines, bacalhau and seafood are the best-known. Add a bifana for a cheap lunch.
Where is the best pastel de nata in Lisbon?
Pastéis de Belém is the original, and Manteigaria bakes in view of the counter. Eat both warm.
Do you need to book restaurants in Lisbon?
For dinner at well-known seafood houses, arrive early or book. Pastry shops and food halls need nothing.
How much do you tip in Lisbon?
Tipping is optional. Round up or leave 5 to 10 percent for good service.
Is Lisbon cheap for food?
It is cheaper than most of western Europe. A bifana, a tart and a coffee cost very little.