Where to eat in Funchal: what to order and where
Funchal eats from the sea and the grill: black scabbardfish with banana, beef on a laurel skewer, and warm garlic bread. The old town has the most choice and the most touts, so choose by the menu. Dinner starts early and the better rooms fill, so book.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- Zona Velha for the widest choice, the center for quieter rooms, the Lido area for hotel restaurants.
- Order this
- Espada com banana, espetada, and bolo do caco with garlic butter.
- When to eat
- Lunch from about 12:30, dinner from about 19:00. Many kitchens close between lunch and dinner.
- Book or walk in
- Book Armazém do Sal and Restaurante do Forte. Casal da Penha and the market take walk-ins.
- Tipping
- Not required. Round up or leave about 5 to 10 percent for good service.
What to eat in Funchal
- Espada com bananaBlack scabbardfish, a deep-sea fish caught off Madeira, fried and served with a banana. Sweet, soft and the island's signature fish dish.
- EspetadaChunks of beef rubbed with garlic and salt, grilled on a laurel skewer and often hung over the table. Eat it with bolo do caco and fried corn.
- Bolo do cacoA round, flat bread cooked on a hot stone and served with garlic butter. It is on almost every table and in sandwiches.
- LapasLimpets grilled in a pan with garlic, butter and lemon. A traditional Madeiran starter.
- Milho fritoCubes of fried cornmeal, served beside espetada and fish. Crisp outside, soft in the middle.
- PonchaA strong drink of sugar-cane spirit, honey and lemon or other fruit juice. Sip it slowly.
- Bolo de melA dark, dense cake made with sugar-cane honey and spices, traditionally eaten around Christmas but sold all year.
- Madeira wineA fortified wine from the island, from dry aperitifs to sweet dessert styles. Try a small glass after dinner.
Where to eat in Funchal, by neighborhood
Zona Velha, the old town
Rua de Santa Maria is lined with restaurants and painted doors. Choose by the menu, not the person at the door, and book for dinner.
The center, near the cathedral and the market
Quieter streets with local lunch rooms and cafes. Good for a quick lunch after the Mercado dos Lavradores.
Lido and the hotel zone
Hotel restaurants and seafront places west of the center, with sea views and higher prices. You need a taxi or bus, and the way back is uphill.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Armazém do Sal
€€€Restaurant · Old town edge
OrderGrilled squid or pork belly
A modern Portuguese kitchen in a former salt warehouse near the waterfront, listed in the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand. Seafood and meat, with tasting menus.
- Book
- Book online through TheFork on its site
Confirmed open: armazemdosal.com
-
Casal da Penha
€€Family restaurant · Centre
OrderLapas, then the fish of the day
A family-run room with a rooftop terrace among the hotels, in the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand. Simple cooking, grilled limpets and fresh fish.
- Book
- Book by phone, or walk in at lunch
- Closed
- Sunday
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
-
Taberna Ruel
€€Tavern · Zona Velha
OrderLocal fish or grilled meat
A corner tavern on Rua de Santa Maria, with tables in the street, under stone arches and in a rear courtyard. Madeiran and Portuguese dishes, with a long Portuguese wine list.
- Book
- Book by phone or email for dinner
Confirmed open: visit.funchal.pt
-
Restaurante do Forte
€€€Fort restaurant · Zona Velha
OrderFish of the day or the tasting menu
A restaurant inside the 17th-century Fort of São Tiago, with views of the sea. It mixes international cooking with Madeiran ingredients.
- Book
- Book by phone or on its website
Confirmed open: visit.funchal.pt
Food markets in Funchal
- Mercado dos LavradoresTropical fruit, flowers and vegetables upstairs, and a fish hall on the lower floor. Try fruit you do not know, and buy fish early.Monday to Friday 7:00 to 20:00, Saturday 7:00 to 14:00, closed Sundays and bank holidaysSource: madeira-web.com
How Funchal eats
- Meal timesLunch from about 12:30 and dinner from about 19:00. Kitchens often close in the afternoon.
- Bread and startersBread, butter and olives arrive at the table and are charged unless you send them back.
- TippingNot required. Round up or leave about 5 to 10 percent for good service.
- ReservationsBook the better rooms for dinner, and more so in December and at New Year.
- WaterTap water is safe, though most people order bottled water.
Signs of a place to walk past
Staff on the pavement calling you in, especially on Rua de Santa Maria.
Menus with photos in six languages and a fixed tourist set meal.
Espetada priced very low, sold from a menu board by the door.
Eating in Funchal: questions people ask
What food is Funchal known for?
Espada com banana, black scabbardfish served with banana, and espetada, beef grilled on a laurel skewer. Bolo do caco, the flat bread with garlic butter, comes with both.
Where is the best place to eat in Funchal?
For fine dining, Armazém do Sal. For simple local cooking, Casal da Penha. For the old town atmosphere, Taberna Ruel. For a view, Restaurante do Forte.
Do you need to book restaurants in Funchal?
For dinner at the better places, yes, and more so in December. Lunch places and the market take walk-ins.
What is espetada?
Beef on a laurel skewer, grilled over wood and served on a hook or a stand. It is the island's main meat dish.
How much do you tip in Funchal?
Tipping is not required. Round up or leave about 5 to 10 percent for good service.
Is the Mercado dos Lavradores open on Sunday?
No, it is closed on Sundays and bank holidays. It opens at 7:00 on weekdays and closes at 14:00 on Saturdays.