French food: what to eat in France, region by region
French cooking is regional, not one national cuisine. Beef in red wine belongs to Burgundy, fish stew to Marseille, cassoulet to the south-west and choucroute to Alsace. Eat what the place you are in does best, at the hours locals eat, and look for the short menu that changes with the season.
The short answer
- Order this first
- The plat du jour or the set lunch menu, which is the cheapest way to eat well. Then the regional dish of the town you are in.
- When people eat
- Lunch from about noon to 2 pm and dinner from about 7:30 pm. Many kitchens close between the two, so a late lunch is hard to find.
- Tipping
- Not expected. Service is included in the price, and a euro or two for good service is plenty.
- Where to eat well
- Small bistros, bouchons and bakeries away from the main sights, and the city food guides here for named places.
What to eat in France
- Boeuf bourguignonBeef braised slowly in red wine with carrots, onions and mushrooms. It is a classic bistro dish, served with potatoes or noodles.Burgundy
- Coq au vinChicken cooked in red wine with bacon, mushrooms and onions. Rich, simple and best in a bistro that cooks to order.Burgundy and Lyon
- BouillabaisseA fish stew from the Mediterranean port, served with rouille and toasted bread. Expect it to cost more than most local dishes.Marseille
- CassouletA slow-baked casserole of white beans, sausage, pork and duck. A winter dish from the south-west.Toulouse and Carcassonne
- Choucroute garnieSauerkraut with sausages and pork, a hearty plate of Alsace's German-influenced cooking. Strasbourg's winstubs serve it.Alsace
- QuenellesLight fish or poultry dumplings in a creamy sauce. A traditional Lyon dish that suits the city's bouchons.Lyon
- RatatouilleA stew of aubergine, courgette, peppers and tomato. A summer dish, eaten warm or cold.Provence and Nice
- Onion soupBeef broth with sweet onions, bread and melted cheese on top. A cold-weather bistro favorite.Paris
- Steak fritesGrilled steak with chips. Simple, reliable and a test of a bistro's basics.Paris and bistros everywhere
- Croque monsieurA grilled ham and cheese sandwich with a creamy sauce. The croque madame adds a fried egg.Paris
- Tarte TatinAn upside-down caramelized apple tart. Order it warm with cream.Loire valley
- CheeseHundreds of kinds: Brie and Camembert from the north, Comte from the Jura, Roquefort from the south. Ask for a small plate at the end of a meal.Everywhere
How the food changes across France
Paris and the north
Cream, butter and apples. Think Normandy cider and camembert, steak frites and the classic bistro menu.
Burgundy and Lyon
Hearty meat dishes and some of the best restaurants in the country. Lyon's bouchons serve sausages, offal and quenelles.
Alsace
German-influenced: sausages, choucroute, tarte flambee, Riesling and beer.
The south-west
Duck, goose, foie gras, beans and Bordeaux wine. Cassoulet is the signature dish.
Provence and the Riviera
Olive oil, tomatoes, fish and herbs. Bouillabaisse in Marseille, socca and pissaladiere in Nice, markets in every town.
What to drink in France
- WineEvery region makes its own. Order the house wine by the carafe, or ask for the local red or white by name.
- CoffeeA small black coffee (un cafe) is the standard. Cafe creme, milky and larger, is a morning drink.
- AperitifA drink before dinner, such as a kir, a glass of Champagne or a pastis in the south, often with olives or nuts.
- CiderDry or sweet cider is the drink of Normandy and Brittany, usually served in a bowl-shaped cup.
- WaterTap water is safe and free in restaurants. Ask for une carafe d'eau.
Where to eat in France, city by city
Paris
The capital, with more museums, streets and neighborhoods than any short trip can cover. It suits first-timers, art lovers and anyone who likes walking a city.
Order Croissant and baguette
Nice
A seafront city on the Riviera with a pebble beach, a lively old town and quick trains along the coast. It suits a sunny few days and day trips to Monaco and Antibes.
Order Socca
Lyon
France's food city, set on two rivers with a big Renaissance old town. It suits eating-led trips and is two hours from Paris by TGV.
Order Quenelle
Bordeaux
A pale stone city on the Garonne with wine on its doorstep and easy walking. It suits couples and anyone who wants to visit vineyards without a long drive.
Order Canelé
Marseille
France's oldest port city, busy and mixed, with a working harbor, rocky inlets nearby and a different mood from Paris. It suits people who like a city with grit.
Order Navettes
Strasbourg
An Alsace city on the German border, with a Gothic cathedral, canals and half-timbered streets. It suits Christmas trips and a quiet start to a Rhine or wine-road route.
Order Choucroute garnie
Annecy
A small town of canals on a clear alpine lake. It suits summer swimming, cycling and walks, and a calm stop on the way to or from the mountains.
Order Fondue savoyarde
Avignon
A walled city with the Popes' palace and a short ride to Provence's villages and vineyards. It suits a base for the south without a car in the city itself.
Order Daube provençale
How France eats
- Meal timesBreakfast is a coffee and a croissant or tartine. Lunch is a main meal, and dinner starts around 7:30 pm. Kitchens often close between meals.
- MenusA formule or menu offers two or three courses at a set price, and is cheaper at lunch. A la carte costs more.
- BreadBread comes free with the meal. Tear it, don't cut it, and use it to mop up sauce.
- ReservationsBook dinner in the cities, especially Friday and Saturday. Many small places keep few tables, and some close on Sunday or Monday.
- TippingNot expected. Service is included, and a euro or two for good service is plenty.
Signs of a place to walk past
A menu with photographs and the same dishes in five languages.
A staff member outside calling people in from the pavement.
A long menu with pizza, burgers and pasta beside French dishes.
A place beside a major monument with no French customers at the tables.
Food in France: questions people ask
What food is France known for?
Bread and pastry, cheese, wine, and regional dishes such as boeuf bourguignon, cassoulet and bouillabaisse. Each region cooks differently, so eat what is local.
What is the most traditional French food?
There is no single national dish. Beef in red wine, coq au vin, onion soup and cassoulet are the most common candidates, with bread and cheese at every table.
What should I eat for breakfast in France?
A croissant or tartine with coffee, taken at a cafe or bakery. A full cooked breakfast is mostly a hotel thing.
Is France good for vegetarians?
Cities have more choice than villages. Salads, omelettes, cheese dishes and vegetable tarts are easy to find. Check whether a soup or sauce uses meat stock or lard.
Do you tip in French restaurants?
No tip is expected, as service is included in the price. A euro or two or rounding up is welcome for good service.
What time do the French eat dinner?
Around 7:30 to 8 pm in most places. Restaurants that open earlier are mostly serving visitors.
What is the best French city for food?
Lyon has the strongest reputation, followed by Paris and Bordeaux. Marseille and Nice are best for seafood and Mediterranean cooking.