Where to eat in Lyon: bouchons, what to order and where to book
Lyon cooks with butter, pork, offal and river fish, and it does it in small restaurants called bouchons. Order the quenelle, the saucisson brioché and a pot of local wine. Lunch is the best value, and dinner needs a booking. The best places are in the Presqu'île and Croix-Rousse, not on the tourist streets in Vieux Lyon.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The Presqu'île and Croix-Rousse for bouchons and bistros, and Les Halles Paul Bocuse for the market.
- Order this
- Quenelle de brochet, saucisson brioché, salade lyonnaise and a praline tart.
- When to eat
- Lunch from noon to 2pm, dinner from 7.30pm. Many bouchons close on Sunday.
- Book or walk in
- Book dinner at least a few days ahead. Lunch is easier.
- Tipping
- Service is included. Round up or leave a few euros.
What to eat in Lyon
- QuenelleA light, soft pike dumpling in a creamy sauce, a Lyon classic.
- Saucisson briochéA pork sausage baked in brioche, served warm.
- Salade lyonnaiseFrisée lettuce with bacon, croutons and a poached egg.
- Cervelle de canutA fresh cheese spread with herbs, shallots and garlic.
- Tablier de sapeurBreaded and fried tripe, a bold local dish.
- Praline tartA bright pink tart of sugared almonds, found in bakeries.
- CervelasA sausage with pistachio, often baked in brioche.
- Coussins de LyonA mint-flavored sweet with a marzipan center, sold in chocolate shops.
Where to eat in Lyon, by neighborhood
Presqu'île
Bistros, bouchons and bakeries between the two rivers, with the most choice.
Croix-Rousse
Local restaurants, a market and a quieter feel, a short steep walk from the center.
Vieux Lyon
Many bouchons, but also many tourist traps. Choose with care.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Café Comptoir Abel
€€Bouchon · Presqu'île
OrderQuenelle de brochet
A bouchon in a historic building, with a long record of traditional cooking.
- Book
- Book ahead for dinner
Confirmed open: maisonabel.fr
-
Daniel et Denise
€€Bouchon · Vieux Lyon
OrderThe seasonal dish of the day
A bouchon led by a chef from the region, with lively cooking.
- Book
- Book ahead
- Closed
- Sunday
Confirmed open: danieletdenise.fr
-
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
€€Food hall · Part-Dieu
OrderOysters, cheese and charcuterie
A covered market with dozens of stalls, good for lunch.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: halles-de-lyon-paulbocuse.com
-
Brasserie Georges
€€Brasserie · Perrache
OrderChoucroute or the plat du jour
A huge brasserie open since 1836, with a lively dining room.
- Book
- Walk in or book
Confirmed open: brasseriegeorges.com
Food markets in Lyon
- Les Halles de Lyon Paul BocuseCheese, charcuterie, pastries and seafood bars.Monday to Saturday, and Sunday morningSource: halles-de-lyon-paulbocuse.com
- Marché de la Croix-RousseA long street market with local produce, cheese and bread.Tuesday to Sunday mornings, closed MondaySource: visiterlyon.com
How Lyon eats
- Meal timesLunch from noon to 2pm and dinner from 7.30pm.
- TippingService is included. Round up or leave a few euros.
- ReservationsBook dinner, especially at weekends. Many places close on Sunday.
- Bouchon labelThe Les Bouchons Lyonnais label marks traditional places, but it is not essential.
Signs of a place to walk past
Restaurants in Vieux Lyon with outdoor staff and large photographs.
Bouchons that offer a very long menu in many languages.
Places that serve the quenelle from a freezer or the salad from a bag.
Eating in Lyon: questions people ask
What food is Lyon known for?
Quenelle, saucisson brioché, salade lyonnaise and praline tart. It is a city of offal and butter.
What is a bouchon?
A small, traditional Lyon restaurant serving local dishes, often at shared tables.
Do I need to book in Lyon?
For dinner, yes, especially from Thursday to Saturday. Lunch is easier.
Is Lyon good for vegetarians?
It is harder, since the cuisine is meat-heavy. Look for salads, cheese and modern restaurants.
Where should I eat in Lyon on a budget?
Choose the lunch menus at bistros and bouchons, which cost much less than dinner.
What time do restaurants open in Lyon?
Lunch from noon and dinner from 7.30pm. Brasseries serve food all day.