Where to eat in Florence
Florentine cooking is Tuscan and simple: bread soup, steak, tripe and olive oil. The best meals are in family-run trattorie a few streets from the Duomo, and the best lunch is a sandwich at a market. Book the steak places, and walk away from any menu printed with photographs.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- Oltrarno and Santa Croce for trattorie, and Sant'Ambrogio for market lunch.
- Order this
- Ribollita, pappardelle with wild boar, and a bistecca alla fiorentina shared by two.
- When to eat
- Lunch from 12.30pm and dinner from 7.30pm. Many places close between the two.
- Book or walk in
- Book steak places and the better trattorie, and walk in for sandwiches and market food.
- Tipping
- Service is often a small cover charge, or round up the bill. Tipping is not expected.
What to eat in Florence
- Bistecca alla fiorentinaA thick T-bone steak grilled rare over charcoal, sold by weight and shared by two.
- RibollitaA thick bread and cannellini bean soup with kale, best in cold months.
- LampredottoA bun filled with slow-cooked cow's stomach, sold from carts across the city.
- Pappardelle al cinghialeWide ribbon pasta with a wild boar ragù, a Tuscan winter dish.
- Crostini toscaniToast topped with chicken liver pâté, the traditional start to a Florentine meal.
- SchiacciataA flat salty bread, filled at lunch with cured meats and cheese.
- GelatoLook for gelato in covered metal tubs, not piled in colored mounds, which usually means a mix.
Where to eat in Florence, by neighborhood
Oltrarno and Santo Spirito
Trattorie and wine bars across the river, with fewer tourists. The best place for a relaxed dinner.
Santa Croce and Sant'Ambrogio
A food market, local trattorie and lively bars. Good for lunch and a late evening.
San Lorenzo and the Mercato Centrale
Close to the station, with a food hall and street market. Easy and busy, and good for a quick meal.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Trattoria Mario
€Trattoria · San Lorenzo
Orderthe ribollita and the bistecca
A lunch-only trattoria near the market, with shared tables and a short menu that changes daily.
- Book
- Walk in early, as they take no bookings and open for lunch only.
- Closed
- Sundays
Confirmed open: attivitastoriche.destinationflorence.com
-
Trattoria Sostanza
€€€Trattoria · Santa Maria Novella
Orderthe butter chicken and the artichoke pie
An old Florentine trattoria that has served the same dishes for generations.
- Book
- Book several days ahead.
- Closed
- Saturdays and Sundays
Confirmed open: attivitastoriche.destinationflorence.com
-
All'Antico Vinaio
€Sandwich shop · Santa Croce
Ordera schiacciata with prosciutto and cheese
A famous sandwich shop with huge portions, and the queue moves quickly.
- Book
- Walk in, expect a queue.
Confirmed open: firenzemadeintuscany.com
-
Osteria Santo Spirito
€€Osteria · Oltrarno
Orderthe pasta and the grilled meat
A relaxed osteria on the Santo Spirito square, with outdoor tables in summer.
- Book
- Book for dinner.
- Closed
- Tuesdays
Confirmed open: osteriasantospirito.it
Food markets in Florence
- Mercato CentraleA food hall above the old San Lorenzo market, with pasta, pizza, steak and gelato stalls under one roof.Open daily, about 9am to 11pmSource: mercatocentrale.com
- Mercato di Sant'AmbrogioA local market for produce, cheese and meat, with a lunch counter for the people who shop here.Open Monday to Saturday, about 7am to 2pmSource: florence-on-line.com
How Florence eats
- Meal timesLunch from 12.30pm and dinner from 7.30pm. Kitchens close in between.
- TippingA small coperto is common, and service is often included. Round up if you like.
- ReservationsBook steak places and popular trattorie a few days ahead. Walk in for sandwiches.
- CoffeeDrink an espresso at the bar, and sit down only if you want to pay more.
Signs of a place to walk past
A menu with photographs and flags near the Duomo.
A bistecca priced per portion, not by weight per 100 grams.
A tout at the door who offers a free glass of wine.
Eating in Florence: questions people ask
What food is Florence known for?
Bistecca alla fiorentina, ribollita, lampredotto and crostini. Wine from Chianti is the regional drink.
Where is the best place to eat in Florence?
Oltrarno and Santa Croce have the best trattorie, with fewer tourists than the center.
How much is bistecca alla fiorentina?
It is sold by weight, and a shared steak is usually the most expensive dish on the menu. Check the price per kilo before you order.
Is it expensive to eat in Florence?
It can be, but a sandwich lunch at a market and a trattoria dinner keep costs low.