Where to eat in Venice
Venetian food is seafood, polenta and small plates eaten standing at a bar. The best meals are in bacari, where you take a glass of wine and a few cicchetti, and in small trattorie away from St Mark's. Eat where the Venetians eat, and book anywhere with a menu in many languages only if you must.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- Cannaregio and Castello for bacari and trattorie, and Dorsoduro for a relaxed evening.
- Order this
- Cicchetti and an ombra of wine, sarde in saor, and a plate of fried lagoon fish.
- When to eat
- A bacaro round at noon and 6pm, and dinner from 7.30pm.
- Book or walk in
- Book the small trattorie. Walk in to bacari and stand at the bar.
- Tipping
- Service is often included. Round up the bill, and a few euros is plenty.
What to eat in Venice
- CicchettiSmall bites on bread or skewers, eaten at a bacaro with a small glass of wine called an ombra.
- Sarde in saorSardines marinated with onions, pine nuts and raisins, a classic Venetian starter.
- Baccalà mantecatoCreamy salt cod whipped with olive oil, served on grilled polenta or bread.
- Risotto al nero di seppiaRice cooked with cuttlefish ink, a rich dish of the lagoon.
- Fritto mistoA mix of fried small fish, prawns and squid from the lagoon, served with lemon.
- Bigoli in salsaThick wholewheat pasta with an anchovy and onion sauce, a plain old Venetian dish.
Where to eat in Venice, by neighborhood
Cannaregio
Bacari on the Fondamenta della Misericordia and around the Ghetto, with a local crowd in the evening.
Castello
Quieter trattorie east of St Mark's, where residents eat. Good for a longer dinner.
San Polo and Rialto
Old bacari near the market, busiest at lunch. Go early, before the crowds arrive.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Cantina Do Mori
€Bacaro · San Polo, near Rialto
Orderthe small sandwiches and a glass of wine
One of the oldest bacari in Venice, near the market, with copper pots on the ceiling.
- Book
- Walk in and stand at the bar.
- Closed
- Sundays
Confirmed open: veneziaautentica.com
-
Osteria alle Testiere
€€€Seafood restaurant · Castello
Orderthe fish of the day
A small, serious seafood place with a short menu that follows the catch.
- Book
- Book well ahead, as there are few tables.
- Closed
- Sundays and Mondays
Confirmed open: tripadvisor.com
-
Trattoria alla Madonna
€€Trattoria · San Polo
Orderthe fried seafood and the spaghetti with clams
A big, old trattoria near the Rialto that has served the same Venetian menu for decades.
- Book
- Book for dinner.
Confirmed open: ristoranteallamadonna.com
-
Antiche Carampane
€€€Seafood restaurant · San Polo
Orderthe crudo and the fried fish
A hidden-away restaurant that serves honest lagoon seafood, far from the crowds.
- Book
- Book ahead.
Confirmed open: antichecarampane.com
Food markets in Venice
- Rialto marketA fish and produce market by the Grand Canal. Look at the day's catch, then eat nearby.Produce Monday to Saturday mornings, fish Tuesday to Saturday morningsSource: visit-venice-italy.com
How Venice eats
- Meal timesA bacaro stop at noon and 6pm, with dinner from 7.30pm. Kitchens close early.
- TippingService is often included, with a small coperto. Round up if you like.
- ReservationsBook trattorie a few days ahead. Walk in to bacari.
- CoffeeDrink espresso at the bar, as table service adds to the price.
Signs of a place to walk past
A menu with pictures and tourist menu signs near St Mark's.
Gondola rides offered with a free dinner.
A restaurant with no Venetians at the tables at 8pm.
Eating in Venice: questions people ask
What food is Venice known for?
Seafood, cicchetti, sarde in saor and risotto with cuttlefish ink. Prosecco and spritz are the local drinks.
What are cicchetti?
Small snacks served at a bacaro, usually on bread or a skewer, eaten with a small glass of wine.
Is eating in Venice expensive?
It can be near the main sights, but bacari are cheap. Eat a few cicchetti for lunch and save on dinner.
Where do locals eat in Venice?
In Cannaregio and Castello, in bacari and small trattorie, away from the main tourist streets.