Where to eat in Marseille: bouillabaisse, markets and what to order
Marseille eats fish first: bouillabaisse, fish soup, grilled sea bass and anything pulled from the harbor that morning. Beyond the fish it is a port with a North African and Italian kitchen alongside the Provençal one, so look for pizza, panisse and spiced stalls too. The Vieux-Port terraces are the weakest value, and the best meals are a few streets back or along the coast.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The Vallon des Auffes and Endoume for fish, Le Panier for pizza, and Noailles for markets and North African food.
- Order this
- Bouillabaisse, fish soup with rouille, panisse, and navettes with a coffee.
- When to eat
- Lunch from noon, dinner from about 7.30pm. Bouillabaisse is a long lunch or a planned dinner.
- Book or walk in
- Book bouillabaisse a day ahead, and book dinner at the better fish places. Pizza and market stalls are walk-in.
- Tipping
- Service is included in French prices. Round up or leave a few euros for good service.
What to eat in Marseille
- BouillabaisseA saffron fish stew made with rockfish, served with rouille, toast and the broth separately. A proper one costs a good deal and needs a day's notice.
- Soupe de poissonSmooth fish soup served with croutons, rouille and grated cheese. A cheaper way into the flavor of bouillabaisse.
- PanisseFried chickpea fingers, crisp outside and soft inside, sold from stalls and served as a starter.
- NavettesBoat-shaped biscuits flavored with orange blossom, sold in bakeries, with a long history in the city.
- Pieds et paquetsA traditional dish of stuffed lamb tripe and trotters in a tomato and wine sauce, found in old-fashioned bistros.
- Grand aïoliSalt cod, boiled vegetables and eggs with a garlic mayonnaise, often served on Fridays.
- PizzaA thick-edged, wood-fired pizza tradition in Le Panier, including the half-and-half pizza with anchovies and cheese.
- PastisThe local aniseed aperitif, served with a jug of water and ice.
Where to eat in Marseille, by neighborhood
Vieux-Port and the streets behind
Most choice and most tourist traps. Walk a few streets back from the quay to find the better places.
Le Panier
Old-style pizzerias and small neighborhood restaurants in the oldest streets. Go for a pizza or a long lunch.
Vallon des Auffes and Endoume
Fish restaurants on and above a small harbor along the Corniche, calmer than the port. It is a short taxi or bus ride from the center.
Noailles
A market quarter with North African grocers, bakeries and cheap lunches, around the Marché des Capucins.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Chez Fonfon
€€€Fish restaurant · Vallon des Auffes
OrderBouillabaisse
A family restaurant on the harbor at the Vallon des Auffes, serving bouillabaisse since 1952.
- Book
- Book ahead, and say you want the bouillabaisse
Confirmed open: chez-fonfon.com
-
Le Miramar
€€€€Fish restaurant · Vieux-Port
OrderBouillabaisse
A long-standing Vieux-Port restaurant best known for bouillabaisse made to the traditional recipe.
- Book
- Book at least a day ahead for the bouillabaisse
- Closed
- Monday
Confirmed open: marseille-tourisme.com
-
La Boîte à Sardine
€€Fishmonger and restaurant · Noailles
OrderThe fish of the day
A fishmonger with a small dining room, cooking whatever the local boats landed that morning.
- Book
- Book for lunch, since seating is limited
- Closed
- Sunday and Monday
Confirmed open: marseille-tourisme.com
-
Chez Etienne
€€Pizzeria · Le Panier
OrderA half-and-half pizza with anchovies and cheese
A pizzeria open since 1943 with a short, unchanged menu and a lively room.
- Book
- Phone ahead, or arrive early
- Closed
- Wednesday and Sunday
Confirmed open: fr.gaultmillau.com
Food markets in Marseille
- Marché des Capucins (Noailles)Fruit, vegetables, spices, olives and North African groceries, in the busiest market quarter of the city.Monday to Saturday, from morning to early eveningSource: provence-alpes-cotedazur.com
- Fish market on the Quai des BelgesBoats sell their catch on the Vieux-Port quay. Buy fish if you have a kitchen, or just watch.Every morning, until the fish is soldSource: marseille-spirit.com
How Marseille eats
- Meal timesLunch from noon to 2pm and dinner from about 7.30pm. Many kitchens close between services.
- TippingService is included in the bill. A few euros extra is a thank you.
- ReservationsBook bouillabaisse a day ahead, and book dinner at the better places. Walk in for pizza, bakeries and market stalls.
- PastisThe usual aperitif is a pastis with water. Pour the water yourself, and add ice.
Signs of a place to walk past
Vieux-Port terraces with photo menus and a server calling out, especially for bouillabaisse.
A bouillabaisse priced low or with no mention of the fish used or the order a day ahead.
Menus that list pizza, pasta, burgers and paella alongside the fish.
Eating in Marseille: questions people ask
What food is Marseille known for?
Bouillabaisse and fish soup, panisse, navettes and pizza. The city's North African and Italian cooking is also part of everyday eating.
Where can I eat a real bouillabaisse in Marseille?
At restaurants that make it from rockfish to the traditional recipe, such as Chez Fonfon or Le Miramar. Book at least a day ahead.
Is bouillabaisse expensive?
Yes. A proper one costs a good deal per person. The fish soup at the market or a bistro is a cheaper way to taste the same flavors.
Do I need to book in Marseille?
For bouillabaisse and the better fish places, yes. For pizza, bakeries and market stalls, walk in.
What is the best market in Marseille?
The Marché des Capucins in Noailles for produce and spices, and the morning fish market on the Quai des Belges.
What is a navette?
A boat-shaped biscuit flavored with orange blossom, a Marseille speciality. The Four des Navettes near Saint-Victor has made them since 1781.