Where to eat on Lake Como, and what to order
Lake Como eats lake fish, polenta and rice from the Lombard plains, plus a few serious restaurants in the grand hotels. Order perch, whitefish or missoltino near the water, and polenta in the hills. The one thing to know: lakeside terraces charge for the view, so the better value is often a street back.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- Varenna for small lakeside restaurants, Como town for the widest choice, and Bellagio for the setting rather than the value.
- Order this
- Risotto with perch fillets, lavarello or missoltino near the lake, and polenta uncia in the hills.
- When to eat
- Lunch from about 12:30 to 14:30 and dinner from 19:30. Many kitchens stop between meals.
- Book or walk in
- Book dinner in summer, and call the small places directly. Some, like Feel Como, take no online bookings.
- Tipping
- Service is not usually included; a coperto cover charge often is. Round up or leave a few euros for good service.
What to eat on Lake Como
- Risotto with perch filletsRice cooked in butter and stock, topped with pan-fried fillets of lake perch. The classic lakeside plate, found in most trattorie on the water.
- MissoltinoLake shad (agone) salted and dried, then grilled or served with polenta. A strong, old local preserve; try it once.
- Polenta unciaBaked polenta layered with local cheese, butter and sage, a dish from the hills above Como. Common in mountain huts and rustic restaurants.
- LavarelloLake whitefish, usually pan-fried or baked with butter and herbs. A mild fish, easy to like.
- PizzoccheriBuckwheat pasta with potatoes, cabbage and melted cheese, from Valtellina to the north. Winter food, but on many menus all year.
- Brasato with polentaBeef braised in red wine and served over soft polenta, the Lombard comfort dish on cold evenings.
Where to eat on Lake Como, by town
Como town
The widest choice on the lake, from simple trattorie in the old center to tasting-menu restaurants. Walk a street or two from the lakefront for fair prices.
Varenna
Small restaurants along the narrow lanes and the waterfront, many serving lake fish. Book ahead for dinner in summer; there are few tables.
Bellagio and the central lake
Terraces with views of the water, and prices to match. The side lanes behind the promenade are better value than the front row.
Torno and the southern arm
Quiet lakeside villages between Como and Bellagio, with a few destination restaurants in hotels. Reached by boat or road, not on foot from the big towns.
Places worth a booking
-
Hosteria del Platano
€€Family restaurant · Varenna
OrderLake fish, when the menu has it
A family-run restaurant with stone walls, vaulted rooms and a terrace, cooking traditional dishes with local fish.
- Book
- Call or book direct; it takes its own reservations
- Closed
- Tuesday
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
-
Visteria
€€€€Hotel restaurant · Varenna
OrderThe tasting menu or a southern Italian dish
A restaurant in the Royal Victoria hotel on the village square, with a Campanian chef and views across the water.
- Book
- Book by phone or through the hotel
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
-
Feel Como
€€€€Contemporary restaurant · Como town
OrderFreshwater fish and the foraged menu
A restaurant focused on wild regional produce, game and freshwater fish, in a town-center setting.
- Book
- Book by phone; no online reservations
- Closed
- Monday
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
-
Il Sereno Al Lago
€€€€Starred hotel restaurant · Torno
OrderA regional Lombard dish from the tasting menu
A Michelin-starred room in a lakeside hotel in Torno, with a terrace over the water and a wine list heavy on Italian reds.
- Book
- Book well ahead, by phone or through the hotel
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
Food markets on Lake Como
- Mercato di ComoGroceries, regional cheeses, cured meats and fresh lake fish, plus clothes and household goods, with cafes along the nearby streets.Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 8:00 to 13:00, and Saturday until 18:00Source: ticino.ch
How Lake Como eats
- Meal timesLunch is from about 12:30 to 14:30 and dinner from 19:30. Many kitchens close in between, so a late lunch can mean only drinks.
- CopertoA cover charge per person, often a couple of euros, is added to most bills. It is not a tip.
- TippingNot expected. Round up the bill or leave a few euros for good service.
- ReservationsBook dinner in summer, and for any terrace on the water. Small places often take bookings only by phone.
- SeasonsMany lakeside restaurants and hotels close from late autumn to spring. Check before you travel off-season.
Signs of a place to walk past
A menu of photographs with every dish in four languages.
A waiter on the pavement calling people in from the promenade.
A lake-view terrace with a long pizza and pasta list and no fish dishes.
A fixed tourist menu with no seasonal dishes or local names.
Eating in Lake Como: questions people ask
What food is Lake Como known for?
Lake fish such as perch, whitefish and shad, polenta in many forms, risotto, and braised meats. Missoltino, dried and salted shad, is the most local and acquired taste.
Is Lake Como expensive for food?
Lakeside terraces are, and the grand-hotel restaurants most of all. Trattorie a street or two back, and lunch menus, cost much less.
Where should I eat in Bellagio?
Walk a street or two off the front for better value, and book dinner in summer. The promenade restaurants charge for the view.
Do I need to book restaurants on Lake Como?
In summer, yes, for dinner and for any place on the water. Small restaurants often take bookings by phone only.
What is polenta uncia?
A baked polenta dish with local cheese, butter and sage from the hills around Como. You find it in mountain huts and rustic restaurants rather than on the promenade.
Can I eat lake fish safely?
Yes, at any restaurant that serves it. Perch, whitefish and shad come from the lake and nearby, and are a normal part of local menus.