Where to eat in Split: what to order and where
Split eats Dalmatian: grilled fish, slow-cooked beef, cured ham and olive oil. The best meals are in small konobas with short menus, not on the Riva. Book dinner at the well-known places and eat lunch at the market or a plain tavern.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The lanes inside and behind the palace, and Veli Varoš.
- Order this
- Grilled fish, pašticada, and the day's fish stew.
- When to eat
- Lunch from 12:00, dinner from 19:00. Small places stop serving early.
- Book or walk in
- Book Dvor and the small konobas for dinner. Markets and cafes take walk-ins.
- Tipping
- Round up or leave about 10 percent if service was good.
What to eat in Split
- PašticadaBeef marinated and stewed slowly in wine and spices, served with gnocchi. A weekend dish in Dalmatian homes.
- Grilled fishWhole fish, sold by weight, grilled and served with chard and potatoes. Ask to see the fish.
- BrudetA fish stew cooked with tomato and wine, served with polenta or bread.
- Black risottoRice with cuttlefish ink and seafood. A coastal staple that is rich and salty.
- Pršut and Pag cheeseCured ham and hard sheep's cheese from the islands. A simple board with olive oil.
- SoparnikA thin pie of chard and olive oil from central Dalmatia, sold in bakeries and at the market.
- FrituleSmall fried doughnuts with raisins and citrus, sold in winter and at festivals.
Where to eat in Split, by neighborhood
Inside the palace
Tourist cafes and a few good small places in the side lanes. Look for short menus and walk away from the Peristyle.
Veli Varoš
Small konobas and wine bars in the old fishermen's quarter west of the palace. Quieter and generally cheaper.
The Riva and the port
Terraces facing the water. Fine for a coffee or aperitif, less good value for dinner.
Marjan side and Meje
Local restaurants with sea views, popular with Split families at weekends.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Konoba Fetivi
€€Konoba · Veli Varoš
OrderGrilled fish or black risotto
A small family-run tavern in the old streets, in the Michelin Guide, cooking simple Dalmatian fish and seafood.
- Book
- Book for dinner, or walk in at lunch
- Closed
- Sunday
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
-
Dvor
€€€€Fish restaurant · Firule
OrderWood-grilled fish from the day's catch
A family-run restaurant with a garden facing the sea, a short walk outside the center. The fish is shown at the entrance.
- Book
- Reserve by phone
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
-
Villa Spiza
€€Tavern · Diocletian's Palace
OrderThe daily dish from the board
A tiny tavern inside the palace with a menu that changes daily according to the market. A short wait is normal.
- Book
- Walk in and expect a wait
Confirmed open: hr.gaultmillau.com
-
Kadena
€€€Mediterranean restaurant · Zenta marina
OrderThe fish stew or fillet from the display
A terrace over the marina on the edge of town, listed in the Michelin Guide for fish and Dalmatian dishes.
- Book
- Reserve by phone
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
Food markets in Split
- Pazar green marketFruit, vegetables, olive oil, honey and cheese beside the palace's east wall. Go before 10:00 for the best produce.Daily, from the morning to early afternoonSource: absolute-croatia.com
- Peškarija fish marketThe old fish market near Marmontova, in a distinctive building. Look at the day's catch even if you are not cooking.Mornings, closed Sunday; check on the daySource: absolute-croatia.com
How Split eats
- Meal timesLunch is a long meal from about 12:00. Dinner starts around 19:00.
- TippingLeave about 10 percent if service was good, or round the bill up.
- ReservationsBook dinner at the well-known places, especially at weekends and in summer.
- Fish by weightWhole fish is priced per kilo. Ask the weight and price before you order.
Signs of a place to walk past
Menus with photos of the dishes by the door.
Waiters on the Riva calling you in.
Fish priced with no weight or price per kilo on the menu.
Eating in Split: questions people ask
What food is Split known for?
Grilled fish, black risotto, pašticada and fish stew. The islands add cured ham, Pag cheese and olive oil.
Where is the best place to eat in Split?
For fish, Dvor. For a small tavern, Konoba Fetivi or Villa Spiza. For a terrace, Kadena.
Do you need to book restaurants in Split?
For the well-known places at dinner, yes. Markets, cafes and bakeries take walk-ins.
How much do you tip in Split?
About 10 percent for good service, or round up the bill.
Is Split expensive for food?
The palace and Riva cost more. Konobas in Veli Varoš and the Pazar market are better value.