What to eat in Montenegro: traditional dishes and how people eat
Montenegrin food is two kitchens in one: seafood, olive oil and risotto on the coast, smoked meat, cheese, cream and cornmeal in the mountains. The dishes below are the ones to try on a short trip. The one thing to know is that portions are large, and sharing a starter and a main is usually enough.
The short answer
- Order this first
- Njeguški pršut, smoked ham from the mountains, with local cheese. It is the country in one plate.
- When people eat
- Breakfast is light, lunch is the main meal for many locals, and dinner is late on the coast, often after 8.
- Tipping
- Rounding up or leaving about 10 per cent is normal. It isn't required.
- Where to eat well
- Our Kotor food guide names the places, each checked against a source.
What to eat in Montenegro
- Njeguški pršutAir-dried, smoked ham from the village of Njeguši in the hills above Kotor. Served thinly sliced with cheese and bread.Njeguši, near Kotor
- KajmakA thick, salty cream skimmed from boiled milk. Eaten on bread, with ham, or alongside grilled meat.The mountains
- Crni rižotBlack risotto colored with cuttlefish ink. A coastal classic, usually with seafood and a lot of garlic.The coast
- KačamakA thick porridge of cornmeal, potatoes, cheese and kajmak. Hearty mountain food, often called a national dish.The north
- ĆevapiSmall grilled minced-meat sausages served with flatbread, onion and kajmak. A quick lunch across the Balkans.Nationwide
- RaštanA stew of kale-like greens with smoked meat and potatoes. A winter dish you will find in traditional restaurants.The mountains
- Grilled fish and shellfishSea bream, sea bass, squid and prawns grilled with olive oil and lemon. Order by the weight and check the price first.The coast
- PriganiceSmall fried dough balls eaten for breakfast with honey, jam or cheese.Nationwide
- BurekA flaky pastry filled with meat, cheese or spinach, eaten at breakfast or as a snack with yoghurt.Nationwide
- Lamb under the sačLamb slow-cooked with potatoes under a bell-shaped metal lid covered in embers. It needs ordering a few hours ahead in many places.The mountains
How the food changes across Montenegro
The coast
Seafood, olive oil and risotto, with Italian and Venetian touches around Kotor and Perast. The best tables are by the bay or in the old towns.
The mountains
Smoked meat, lamb, cheese, kajmak and cornmeal. Cooking is slow and the portions are big.
Lake Skadar
Freshwater fish such as carp and bleak, often dried or fried, with local wine from the plains nearby.
What to drink in Montenegro
- VranacThe main local red grape, giving a dark, full wine. Most of it is grown on the plains near Lake Skadar.
- KrstačA local white grape that makes a dry, fresh wine, good with fish.
- RakijaA strong fruit brandy, made from grapes, plums or other fruit. Often offered as a welcome, and sipped slowly.
- Turkish-style coffeeStrong coffee served in a small pot or cup. It is a social drink, and a coffee can last an hour.
Where to eat in Montenegro, city by city
Kotor
A medieval walled town under steep limestone mountains at the end of a fjord-like bay. It suits couples, walkers and anyone who wants history, views and the sea in one place.
Order Njeguški pršut
How Montenegro eats
- Meal timesA light breakfast, a long lunch from about 1 and dinner late on the coast, often after 8.
- CoffeeA slow ritual, not a takeaway. Cafes are for sitting, and nobody will hurry you.
- ReservationsBook dinner in Kotor and Budva in summer a day or two ahead. Lunch spots usually take walk-ins.
- TippingRound up or leave about 10 per cent. Check whether a cover charge is already on the bill.
Signs of a place to walk past
Menus with photographs of every dish on the pavement.
A seafront restaurant with no prices for fish sold by weight.
Staff outside pulling people in from the street.
Njeguški pršut that is sliced thick and wet instead of dark, thin and dry.
Food in Montenegro: questions people ask
What food is Montenegro known for?
Njeguški pršut (smoked ham), kajmak (a salty cream), black risotto and kačamak (cornmeal porridge). Grilled fish and ćevapi are common everywhere.
What is the national dish of Montenegro?
Kačamak, a thick porridge of cornmeal, potato and cheese, is often named as the national dish. Njeguški pršut is the best-known product.
What is kajmak?
A thick, salty cream skimmed from boiled milk. It is spread on bread, eaten with ham or served with grilled meat.
What do people eat for breakfast in Montenegro?
Burek, priganice with honey or jam, eggs, bread with ham and cheese, and strong coffee. Breakfast is light compared with lunch.
Is food expensive in Montenegro?
It costs less than in much of western Europe, but coastal restaurants in summer are pricier than inland. Lunch and local grill houses keep costs down.
Do you tip in Montenegro restaurants?
Rounding up or leaving about 10 per cent is normal. It isn't required, but it is appreciated.
Is Montenegro good for vegetarians?
It is possible but not easy, because much of the cooking is built around meat. Look for grilled vegetables, cheese pies, salads and bean dishes.