Hungary food: what to eat and drink
Hungarian food is built on paprika, pork, sour cream and fat, and it is cooked slowly. The famous dish is goulash, but it is a soup here, and the stews, fried dough and cakes are as good. Eat the main meal at lunch, take cake in the afternoon, and expect a service charge on the bill.
The short answer
- Order this first
- Gulyásleves, the soup that is called goulash abroad, then a slice of Dobos torta.
- When people eat
- Lunch is the main meal, from around noon. Dinner is from about 7pm, and cafes open by 9am.
- Tipping
- Check the bill for a service charge of around 12 to 13 per cent. If there is none, leave about 10 per cent.
- Where to eat well
- In Budapest, in the market halls and old coffee houses. Outside it, in wine towns such as Eger and by Lake Balaton.
What to eat in Hungary
- GulyáslevesGoulash soup of beef, potato, onion and paprika. It is eaten as a main course with bread, not as a thick stew.Nationwide
- PörköltThe thick stew that foreigners often call goulash. Meat is slow-cooked with onion and paprika and served with nokedli, small dumplings.Nationwide
- LángosDeep-fried flatbread, usually topped with sour cream and cheese. It is sold at markets, festivals and by Lake Balaton.Nationwide
- HalászléA spicy fish soup with paprika, made with river carp or catfish. It is a river-town dish and is also eaten at Christmas.Danube and Tisza rivers
- Töltött káposztaCabbage rolls stuffed with minced pork and rice, cooked in a paprika and sour cream sauce. It is winter food.Nationwide
- Paprikás csirkeChicken cooked in a paprika and sour cream sauce, served with nokedli. It is a standard Sunday lunch.Nationwide
- LecsóA summer stew of peppers, tomatoes and onion, often with sausage or egg. It is simple home cooking.Nationwide
- KürtőskalácsChimney cake: sweet dough wound on a spit, baked over embers and rolled in sugar, cinnamon or nuts. It is sold hot at markets and fairs.Transylvanian-Hungarian origin
- Dobos tortaA tall sponge cake with chocolate buttercream and a hard caramel top. It was created in the 19th century and is on the menu of most old cafes.Budapest
- RétesHungarian strudel with thin pastry and a filling of apple, sour cherry or sweet curd cheese. Cafes serve it warm.Nationwide
How the food changes across Hungary
Budapest and the center
The widest choice: old-style restaurants, market halls and cafes, with a growing modern kitchen scene. It is the best place to try the classic dishes.
The Great Plain
Meat country, with stews, sausages and dishes cooked in an open pot. Paprika from the south of the country is used in nearly everything.
Rivers and Lake Balaton
Fish is the focus: fish soup from the Danube and Tisza, and zander (fogas) from Lake Balaton. Lángos is the lakeside snack.
The wine regions
Eger and Tokaj pair simple local food with their wines, and many cellars serve a plate of cold cuts and cheese. Go for the cellar tasting rather than a long menu.
What to drink in Hungary
- Egri BikavérA red blend from Eger, known in English as Bull's Blood. It is the best-known red wine in the country.
- TokajiThe sweet white wine of Tokaj, sold by sweetness level. Dry Tokaj whites are also worth trying.
- PálinkaA fruit brandy, often made from plum, apricot or pear. It is served in small glasses, often before or after a meal.
- UnicumA dark herbal bitter, sold in a round bottle. It is an acquired taste, and many Hungarians take it after a heavy meal.
- Hungarian craft beerSmall breweries have grown in Budapest and across the country. Look for local names on tap in pubs and bars.
Where to eat in Hungary, city by city
Budapest
A grand capital split by the Danube, with thermal baths, old coffee houses, ruin bars and a very good food scene. It suits first-timers, couples, food-led trips and anyone who wants a big city that still costs less than Vienna.
Order Lángos
How Hungary eats
- Meal timesLunch is the main meal and often has a set menu on weekdays. Dinner is lighter and starts from around 7pm.
- Coffee and cakeOld coffee houses are part of daily life. Order a slice of cake and a coffee, and expect to stay for as long as you like.
- ReservationsBook dinner for Friday and Saturday in Budapest. Outside the city, cellars and lakeside places fill in summer, so book ahead then.
- TippingCheck the bill, as many places add a service charge of around 12 to 13 per cent. If not, round up or leave about 10 per cent, in cash where possible.
- PayingCards are taken in most restaurants. Carry cash for markets and lángos stalls, and always pay in forint.
Signs of a place to walk past
A menu with photos of the food in six languages outside a restaurant on a main tourist street.
A waiter calling you in from the pavement, or a place with a staff member holding a menu at you.
A restaurant with a menu priced in euros, or one that offers to charge your card in your own currency.
A bill with a service charge added on top of a menu that said nothing about it. Ask before you order.
Food in Hungary: questions people ask
What food is Hungary known for?
Goulash soup (gulyásleves), paprika stews, lángos, chicken paprikash, fish soup and cakes such as Dobos torta. Paprika, pork and sour cream appear in most of them.
What are traditional Hungarian dishes?
Gulyásleves, pörkölt, paprikás csirke, töltött káposzta, halászlé and lecsó are the standard answers. For sweets, try rétes, Dobos torta and kürtőskalács.
Is goulash a soup or a stew in Hungary?
In Hungary gulyásleves is a soup, eaten as a main course. The thicker dish that many countries call goulash is closer to pörkölt.
What is lángos?
A deep-fried flatbread, usually topped with sour cream and cheese, and sometimes garlic. It is a street and market snack, and a lakeside staple at Balaton.
What do Hungarians eat for breakfast?
Bread or rolls with cold cuts, cheese, peppers and tomato, often with eggs. Sweet pastries and coffee are also common.
Is Hungarian food spicy?
It is paprika-rich but usually not hot. Many tables have a jar of crushed hot pepper, so you can add heat yourself.
Is Hungary good for vegetarians?
Meat is central, but you can eat well. Look for lecsó, mushroom stews, cheese dumplings, pasta with curd cheese and sweet pastries, and ask about lard in the cooking.