Where to eat in Heraklion
Heraklion eats Cretan: dakos barley rusk with tomato and cheese, snails, lamb and goat, wild greens and plenty of olive oil, with raki poured at the end. The best food is in family tavernas and an ouzeri or two, not on the harbor frontage. Order to share, and ask for the day's dishes.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The old center around the market street and Kazantzakis park, plus the Venetian harbor for fish.
- Order this
- Dakos, a plate of Cretan meat or greens, and a glass of raki at the end.
- When to eat
- Lunch from 1pm, dinner from 8pm. Kitchens run late in summer.
- Book or walk in
- Book Peskesi and the harbor places in summer. Most tavernas take walk-ins.
- Tipping
- Round up the bill or leave around 5 to 10 per cent. Service is rarely included.
What to eat in Heraklion
- Dakos and Cretan saladBarley rusk soaked with tomato, soft white cheese and olive oil. Found in every taverna, and the dish to start a meal with.
- SfakianopitaA thin pastry filled with soft cheese, often served with thyme honey. A snack or a dessert.
- Snails (chochlioi boubouristi)Snails fried in olive oil with vinegar and rosemary, a local favorite. Order them if you are curious.
- Lamb and goatSlow-cooked lamb or goat, often with potatoes or wild greens. Look for it on the daily list.
- GamopilafoA rich wedding pilaf cooked in meat stock, found in traditional tavernas.
- Wild greens (horta)Boiled greens with olive oil and lemon, a staple side dish.
- KalitsouniaSmall cheese or herb pies, sweet or savory, sold in bakeries.
- RakiA clear grape spirit, served free at the end of many meals.
Where to eat in Heraklion, by neighborhood
Old center and the market
Tavernas around the market street and Kazantzakis park, where residents eat lunch. Better value than the squares.
Venetian harbor
Fish and ouzeri with a sea view. Check prices before you order fish by weight.
Lions square and Eleftherias
Cafes and pastry shops, good for breakfast and a coffee. Dinner is more mixed here.
Outside the walls
Modern restaurants and wine bars in the newer streets, and the farm-to-table cooking of Peskesi.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Peskesi
€€€Cretan restaurant · Old center
OrderThe Cretan tasting menu or slow-cooked lamb
A restored mansion serving farm-to-table Cretan cooking from its own produce, and a Michelin Guide listing.
- Book
- Book ahead, especially in summer
Confirmed open: greeka.com
-
Erganos
€€Taverna · Old center
OrderSfakianopita, keftedes and goat
A taverna beside Kazantzakis park, open since 1986, mostly eaten in by locals.
- Book
- Walk in, book on weekends
Confirmed open: tablejourney.com
-
Ippokampos
€€Ouzeri · Venetian harbor
OrderGrilled octopus and fresh fish
A seafront ouzeri near the old harbor, grilling the day's catch.
- Book
- Walk in, book for evenings in summer
Confirmed open: greeka.com
-
Kiriakos
€€Taverna · Old center
OrderFried snails and the daily dishes
A family taverna with traditional Cretan cooking and a local clientele.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: greeka.com
-
Kastella
€€Seafood taverna · Venetian harbor
OrderGrilled octopus and fish of the day
A waterside taverna near the museums and the fortress, with homemade recipes.
- Book
- Walk in, book for sunset tables
Confirmed open: greeka.com
Food markets in Heraklion
- Heraklion Central Market (1866 street)A narrow street of cheese, herb, rusk and butcher stalls. Look for graviera cheese, barley rusks and mountain herbs.Monday to Saturday, from morning to early evening; closed SundaysSource: tablejourney.com
How Heraklion eats
- Meal timesLunch from 1pm to 3pm, dinner from 8pm. Locals eat late, especially in summer.
- TippingRound up the bill or leave around 5 to 10 per cent. A service charge is not always included.
- SharingOrder several dishes and share. Mains are often split.
- Free rakiMany tavernas bring raki and a sweet at the end of the meal. It is a gesture, so accept it.
Signs of a place to walk past
A waiter standing at the door calling people in.
Laminated menus with photographs of every dish.
No prices on a board or menu outside.
Eating in Heraklion: questions people ask
What food is Heraklion known for?
Dakos, snails, slow-cooked lamb and goat, wild greens, and graviera cheese. Raki and local wines are the traditional drinks.
Where should I eat in Heraklion?
In the old center around the market and Kazantzakis park, or at the old harbor for fish. Avoid the busiest square frontages.
Is it cheap to eat in Heraklion?
It can be. Tavernas and bakeries are good value, while fish by weight and fine dining cost more.
Do I need to book a table in Heraklion?
For Peskesi and the harbor places in summer, yes. Otherwise walk in.
What is dakos?
A barley rusk topped with grated tomato, soft cheese and olive oil. It is the classic Cretan starter.