Where to eat in Cologne
Cologne eats in brewhouses: Kölsch in 0.2 liter glasses, pork, potatoes and rye rolls. The food is plain and filling, and the table rules are part of the fun. Go to a Früh or a Sion for the first night, find a quieter neighborhood place for the second, and book for groups on weekends.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The Altstadt for brewhouses, the Belgisches Viertel for modern cafes, the Südstadt and Ehrenfeld for local places.
- Order this
- A Kölsch, Himmel un Äd and a Halve Hahn, which is a rye roll with cheese.
- When to eat
- Lunch from 12, dinner from 6pm. Brewhouses open at noon and stay busy until late.
- Book or walk in
- Walk in to brewhouses and share a table. Book for groups, or for a smaller restaurant on Friday and Saturday.
- Tipping
- Round up the bill by 5 to 10 per cent, in cash at the table.
What to eat in Cologne
- Halve HahnA rye roll with mature Gouda, onion and mustard. The name means half a chicken, but it is a cheese roll, sold in bakeries and brewhouses.
- KölschThe local pale beer, served in a thin 0.2 liter glass called a Stange and brewed only in Cologne.
- Himmel un ÄdHeaven and earth: mashed potato with apple sauce and fried black pudding or liver.
- Rheinischer SauerbratenMarinated beef in a sweet and sour sauce with raisins, served with dumplings and red cabbage.
- ReibekuchenFried potato pancakes with apple sauce or rye bread, found at brewhouses and Christmas markets.
- Kölsche KaviarBlood sausage on a roll with onion, a classic with a Kölsch.
- SchnitzelA large breaded pork or veal cutlet with sauce, a speciality of the Kwartier Latäng and the Südstadt.
Where to eat in Cologne, by neighborhood
Altstadt
The brewhouses and rolls. Choose one a street or two from the cathedral for a lower bill.
Belgisches Viertel
Modern cafes, bakeries, wine bars and small restaurants. Better for brunch and a relaxed dinner.
Südstadt and Deutz
Local pubs, bakeries and the great-value Kotelett across the river in Deutz.
Ehrenfeld and Nippes
Turkish, Vietnamese and Italian places, markets and cafes. A good evening away from the tourist center.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Früh am Dom
€€Brewhouse · Altstadt
OrderKölsch with Halve Hahn or Himmel un Äd
A long-established brewhouse near the cathedral with its own Kölsch. Large and busy, and a fair first night.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: frueh.de
-
Peters Brauhaus
€€Brewhouse · Altstadt
OrderSchlachtplatte or Sauerbraten
A Cologne brewhouse in the Mühlengasse, open every day with hearty plates and vegetarian options.
- Book
- Book via the website for groups
Confirmed open: peters-brauhaus.de
-
Brauhaus Sion
€€Brewhouse · Altstadt
OrderKölsch and Rheinischer Sauerbraten
A brewhouse in the old town, a few minutes from the main station and open every day from noon.
- Book
- Reserve online for groups
Confirmed open: brauhaus-sion.de
-
Päffgen
€€Brewhouse · Friesenviertel
OrderKölsch and Happen Tatar auf Schwarzbrot
A traditional house that serves its own Kölsch from the barrel and small snacks to go with it.
- Book
- Walk in, or phone from noon
Confirmed open: paeffgen-koelsch.de
-
Lommerzheim
€€Traditional restaurant · Deutz
OrderThe large Kotelett with fried potatoes
A traditional Deutz pub, known for a huge pork chop. Plain, loud and popular.
- Book
- Phone ahead or arrive early
- Closed
- Tuesday
Confirmed open: koeln.de
-
Bei Oma Kleinmann
€€Schnitzel restaurant · Kwartier Latäng
OrderA pork or veal schnitzel with a sauce
A family-run schnitzel house on the Zülpicher Straße, known for its large cutlets.
- Book
- Book for Friday and Saturday
Confirmed open: koeln.de
Food markets in Cologne
- Wochenmarkt Wilhelmplatz, NippesThe district's daily market, with vegetables, cheese, bread and a few stands for a snack.Monday to Friday 7am to 1pm, Saturday 7am to 2.30pmSource: koeln.de
- Wochenmarkt Neptunplatz, EhrenfeldA neighborhood market with produce, bread and street food.Friday 7am to 2pmSource: koeln.de
How Cologne eats
- Kölsch serviceA waiter called a Köbes brings a fresh 0.2 liter glass until you put your beer mat on top of it. Do that when you have had enough.
- Shared tablesIn brewhouses, expect to share a long table. Ask if a seat is free and settle in.
- Meal timesLunch from 12 and dinner from 6pm. Many brewhouses stay open all day.
- TippingRound up the bill by 5 to 10 per cent, and tell the waiter the total when you pay.
- CashMost places take cards, but small brewhouses and market stalls may prefer cash.
Signs of a place to walk past
A restaurant on the cathedral square with a menu in six languages.
A brewhouse that serves Kölsch from another city, or in large glasses.
A Halve Hahn made with a soft white roll instead of a rye one.
Eating in Cologne: questions people ask
What food is Cologne known for?
Kölsch, Halve Hahn, Himmel un Äd, Sauerbraten and Reibekuchen. Expect plain, filling Rhineland cooking.
Where should I eat in Cologne?
A brewhouse in the Altstadt for the first night, then the Belgisches Viertel or Ehrenfeld for something lighter.
What is a Halve Hahn?
A rye roll with mature cheese, onion and mustard. It is not chicken, despite the name.
Do I need to book in Cologne?
Not for most brewhouses. Book for groups and for smaller restaurants on Friday and Saturday.
Is Cologne cheap to eat in?
Brewhouse meals are good value. Restaurants near the cathedral cost more.