Where to eat in Bucharest
Bucharest eats Romanian: cabbage rolls, grilled mici, soups sharpened with sour liquid and papanași for dessert. The Old Town's historic inns and the open-air markets are the best places to start. Eat sarmale at lunch, book dinner at weekends, and expect a large plate.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The Old Town for historic rooms, Calea Victoriei and Universitate for everyday restaurants.
- Order this
- Sarmale with polenta, mici, and papanași for dessert.
- When to eat
- Lunch from 12, dinner from 7pm. Many places stay open late.
- Book or walk in
- Book Friday and Saturday dinner in the Old Town. Markets take walk-ins.
- Tipping
- Tip about 10 per cent in cash or by card. Check whether a service charge is on the bill.
What to eat in Bucharest
- SarmaleCabbage rolls stuffed with minced pork and rice, served with polenta and sour cream.
- MiciSkinless grilled sausages of mixed meat and garlic, eaten with mustard and bread, often with a beer.
- CiorbăA sour soup, often ciorbă de burtă (tripe) or ciorbă de perișoare (meatballs), finished with sour cream.
- MămăligăA polenta that comes with sarmale, cheese or stews instead of bread.
- Ciolan cu fasoleSmoked pork knuckle with white beans, a heavy, filling winter dish.
- PapanașiFried or boiled cheese doughnuts topped with sour cream and cherry or berry jam.
- Salată de boeufA cold salad of diced vegetables, meat and mayonnaise, served at holidays and in many restaurants.
Where to eat in Bucharest, by neighborhood
Centrul Vechi (Old Town)
Historic inns and restaurants in a pedestrian grid. Popular and often touristy, so choose by name, not by the tout on the lane.
Piața Universității and Calea Victoriei
Everyday restaurants and cafes between the university and the Athenaeum. Good for lunch and for a simpler dinner.
Cișmigiu and Piața Romană
Cafes by the park and local lunch spots along the streets nearby. Calmer than the Old Town.
Obor and the northern markets
Local market districts where mici and grills are cheap and the crowds are Romanian.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Caru' cu Bere
leileiBeer hall · Centrul Vechi
OrderSarmale or ciolan, with a beer
A grand beer hall on Strada Stavropoleos with painted ceilings, open since 1879 and still the city's best-known room. Busy, loud and a reasonable way to see the old city.
- Book
- Book online or by phone, at least a day ahead
Confirmed open: carucubere.ro
-
Hanu' lui Manuc
leileiRestaurant · Centrul Vechi
OrderSarmale or grilled meats in the courtyard
A caravanserai from 1808 with a galleried courtyard, now a restaurant. Live music from about 9pm, so ask for a table inside if you want quiet.
- Book
- Book ahead for the courtyard on weekends
Confirmed open: hanulluimanuc.ro
-
Lacrimi și Sfinți
leileileiRestaurant · Centrul Vechi
OrderRoast duck with cabbage, and a glass of the owner's wine
A restaurant on Strada Șepcari that serves updated Romanian dishes and wines from its owner's estate. Quieter than the main lanes, with a small courtyard.
- Book
- Book ahead for dinner
Confirmed open: inyourpocket.com
-
La Mama
leiRestaurant · Piața Universității
OrderSarmale with mămăligă, and papanași
A local group of home-style Romanian restaurants, with a branch near the university. Big portions and a cheap daily menu.
- Book
- Walk in at lunch, book for dinner at weekends
Confirmed open: lamama.ro
Food markets in Bucharest
- Piața OborThe city's largest open-air market, with produce, cheese and meat. A terrace inside serves grilled mici.Daily, from 7am; closes mid-afternoon on SundaySource: tablejourney.com
- Piața AmzeiA central market with a covered hall of produce, cheese and smoked meats, near Piața Romană. Meat and cheese stalls close early.Daily, from 7am to about 6pmSource: tablejourney.com
How Bucharest eats
- Meal timesLunch from 12 and dinner from 7pm. Restaurants in the Old Town stay open late.
- Lunch menusMany restaurants offer a cheaper set lunch on weekdays.
- TippingTip about 10 per cent. Check whether a service charge is already on the bill.
- Bread and extrasBread and sides are often charged separately. Check the menu before you order them.
Signs of a place to walk past
A tout on an Old Town lane waving a laminated menu.
A menu with no prices, or prices only per 100 grams.
A bill with unexplained extras or a large service charge.
Eating in Bucharest: questions people ask
What food is Bucharest known for?
Sarmale, mici, ciorbă and papanași. Romanian cooking is hearty and built around pork, cabbage, polenta and sour cream.
Where should I eat in Bucharest?
The Old Town for atmosphere, and the streets around Universitate and Calea Victoriei for everyday meals.
What are mici?
Skinless grilled sausages of mixed meat and garlic, eaten with mustard and bread.
Do I need to book in Bucharest?
At weekends, yes, for popular Old Town restaurants. Markets and casual places take walk-ins.
Is Romanian food spicy?
Not usually. It is hearty and savory, with garlic and sour cream, and chilli is served on the side.
Do you tip in Bucharest?
Yes. Tip about 10 per cent unless a service charge is already on the bill.