Where to eat in Seville: tapas, what to order and where to book
Seville invented the tapa, and its best food is small plates at the bar: ham, fried fish, spinach with chickpeas, and pork cheek in sherry sauce. Lunch is at 2pm and dinner after 9pm. The best bars are in Santa Cruz, Alfalfa and Triana, not on the cathedral square. Walk in for tapas and book for dinner.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- Alfalfa and Triana for tapas, and Santa Cruz for a quiet dinner.
- Order this
- Jamón, espinacas con garbanzos, carrillada, pescaíto frito and salmorejo.
- When to eat
- Lunch from 2pm, dinner from 9pm. Tapas bars fill from 8pm.
- Book or walk in
- Walk in for tapas and book for dinner at restaurants.
- Tipping
- Optional. Round up or leave a euro or two.
What to eat in Seville
- Jamón ibéricoCured ham from acorn-fed pigs, sliced thin.
- Espinacas con garbanzosSpinach with chickpeas and cumin, a Seville classic.
- CarrilladaPork cheek slow-cooked in red wine or sherry sauce.
- Pescaíto fritoA plate of fried small fish, eaten at the bar.
- SalmorejoA thick cold tomato soup with ham and egg.
- Tortilla de camaronesA crisp shrimp fritter, a speciality of Cádiz also found here.
- Solomillo al whiskyPork sirloin in a garlic and whisky sauce.
- TorrijasBread soaked in milk and fried, a dessert for Easter.
Where to eat in Seville, by neighborhood
Alfalfa
The most tapas bars in a small space, with a mix of locals and visitors.
Triana
Across the river, with riverside bars and a market.
Santa Cruz
Pretty, but the best places are on the quieter streets.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
El Rinconcillo
€€Tapas bar · Alfalfa
OrderEspinacas con garbanzos and a glass of manzanilla
A bar open since 1670, with an old counter.
- Book
- Walk in or book a table
Confirmed open: azahar-sevilla.com
-
Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas
€Tapas bar · Santa Cruz
OrderMontadito de pringá
A busy, standing-room bar near the cathedral.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: frommers.com
-
Casa Morales
€€Taverna · Centre
OrderMontaditos and a glass of manzanilla
A bar and old wine shop open since 1850.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: frommers.com
-
Mercado de Triana
€€Market · Triana
OrderSeafood and tapas at the stalls
A market in an old castle site, with seafood stalls and small bars.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: visitasevilla.es
Food markets in Seville
- Mercado de TrianaA market with fish, produce and small tapas bars.Monday to Saturday for stalls, with bars open on SundaySource: visitasevilla.es
- Mercado de la EncarnaciónA local market under the Metropol Parasol.Monday to SaturdaySource: visitasevilla.es
How Seville eats
- Meal timesLunch from 2pm, dinner from 9pm.
- TippingOptional. Round up or leave a euro or two.
- ReservationsWalk in for tapas and book for dinner.
- SherryTry a manzanilla or fino, served cold with tapas.
Signs of a place to walk past
Restaurants on the cathedral square with photographs and a server.
Paella served in Seville, since it is a Valencian dish.
Menus with sangria by the pitcher at tourist prices.
Eating in Seville: questions people ask
What food is Seville known for?
Jamón, espinacas con garbanzos, carrillada, fried fish and salmorejo.
What time do people eat in Seville?
Lunch from 2pm and dinner from 9pm.
Do I need to book in Seville?
For restaurants at dinner, yes. Tapas bars are walk in.
What is a tapa?
A small plate served with a drink, and Seville says it started here.
Is Seville cheap for food?
Local bars are cheap, and a tapa costs a few euros.
What should I drink in Seville?
A manzanilla or fino sherry, a caña or a tinto de verano.