What to eat in Latvia: traditional dishes and how Latvians eat
Latvian food is dark rye bread, pork, potatoes, fish, dairy and berries, cooked simply and made for cold weather. The dishes below are the ones to try on a short trip. The one thing to know is that rye bread appears with almost everything, from soup to dessert.
The short answer
- Order this first
- Grey peas with bacon, the national dish, and a slice of dark rye bread on the side.
- When people eat
- Lunch around midday, often a soup. Dinner between 6 and 8, a little earlier than southern Europe.
- Tipping
- Tipping is modest. Rounding up or leaving about 10 percent is usual if service was not added.
- Where to eat well
- Our Riga food guide names the places, each checked against a source.
What to eat in Latvia
- Grey peas with baconBoiled gray peas mixed with fried bacon and onion, often called the national dish. It is served hot, usually with sour milk or kefir on the side.Nationwide
- RupjmaizeDense, dark, slightly sweet rye bread that Latvians eat daily. Buy a loaf at a market or bakery.Nationwide
- Rupjmaizes kārtojumsA dessert of crumbled rye bread layered with whipped cream and berry jam. Found in many restaurants and cafes.Nationwide
- Aukstā zupaA cold pink summer soup of beetroot and kefir, with cucumber, dill and egg, eaten with boiled potatoes. A June to August dish.Nationwide
- PiragiSmall baked bread rolls filled with bacon and onion. A warm snack from bakeries and a standard at celebrations.Nationwide
- Smoked fishSmoked sprats, herring, flounder and eel, sold at markets and by the sea. Eat it with rye bread and a drink.The coast
- SklandrausisA sweet tart with a thin rye crust, filled with carrot and potato puree and flavored with caraway. A traditional bakery item.Kurzeme and the west
- CepeliniPotato dumplings filled with minced meat, served with sour cream. A hearty, filling dish with Lithuanian and Slavic roots.Latgale and the east
- PelmeņiMeat dumplings boiled and served with butter or sour cream. A cheap and common lunch in canteens and cafes.Nationwide
- Biezpiena sieriņšA sweet curd cheese bar coated in chocolate. A very Latvian snack from supermarkets, in many flavors.Nationwide
How the food changes across Latvia
Riga and Vidzeme
The capital has the widest range, from traditional canteens and market stalls to modern kitchens. Vidzeme, to the north, adds game, mushrooms and berries from the forests.
Kurzeme
The west coast eats smoked fish, fresh sea fish and sweet baking, with sklandrausis as a regional pastry.
Latgale
The east leans on potatoes, dumplings and dairy, with Slavic influences and a strong tradition of pottery and honey.
Zemgale
The farming plain south of Riga is known for grain, dairy and vegetables, and for a good local bakery tradition.
What to drink in Latvia
- Riga Black BalsamA dark herbal liqueur, drunk neat, in coffee or in cocktails. It is the best known Latvian drink, and strong.
- BeerLatvia has a long brewing tradition and a growing craft scene. Ask for a local light or dark beer with the meal.
- KvassA lightly fermented rye bread drink, sold in bottles and from summer street stalls. Mildly sweet and sour.
- Birch sap and herbal teasSpring birch sap and teas made from forest herbs and berries are common and non-alcoholic.
Where to eat in Latvia, city by city
Riga
A walkable capital with a medieval old town, one of Europe's largest collections of Art Nouveau buildings and a big central market. It suits couples, architecture fans and anyone who wants an affordable city with good food.
Order Grey peas with bacon
How Latvia eats
- Meal timesLunch around midday, often with soup, and dinner between 6 and 8. Kitchens tend to close by 10 in the evening.
- BreadRye bread comes with soup, meat and fish, and is on the table at most meals.
- ReservationsBook dinner at well-known restaurants a week or two ahead for weekends. Lunch spots and canteens usually take walk-ins.
- TippingRounding up or leaving about 10 percent is usual, if service was not already added.
Signs of a place to walk past
Menus with photographs of every dish on the pavement.
A restaurant on a main old-town square with staff pulling people in.
A menu in six languages that offers pizza, kebabs and local dishes all together.
Rye bread that looks dry or comes pre-packed rather than cut fresh.
Food in Latvia: questions people ask
What food is Latvia known for?
Dark rye bread, gray peas with bacon, smoked fish, dumplings and rye bread dessert are the best known. Berries, mushrooms and dairy are everyday staples.
What is the national dish of Latvia?
Grey peas with bacon is often named as the national dish. Rye bread is the national staple.
What is rupjmaize?
A dense, dark rye bread that Latvians eat with almost every meal. It tastes slightly sweet and sour, and is also used in desserts.
What do Latvians eat for breakfast?
Rye bread with cheese, ham or butter, porridge, and yoghurt or curd snacks. Coffee or tea is the usual drink.
Is food cheap in Latvia?
Eating out costs less than in much of western Europe, especially at lunch and in canteens and markets. Riga's old town costs more than streets a few blocks away.
Do you tip in Latvian restaurants?
A small tip is usual. Rounding up or leaving about 10 percent works if service has not already been added to the bill.
What is Riga Black Balsam?
A strong, dark herbal liqueur made in Riga. It is drunk neat, with coffee or in cocktails, and is the drink most visitors take home.