What to eat in Estonia: traditional dishes and how Estonians eat
Estonian food is rye bread, pork, potatoes, herring, dairy and berries, shaped by the Baltic, the forest and a short growing season. The dishes below are the ones to try on a short trip. The one thing to know is that it is hearty, simple and seasonal, and at its best in small restaurants rather than the old town's tourist squares.
The short answer
- Order this first
- A plate of rye bread with something on top, or mulgipuder, a barley and potato mash with crisp pork. Both are easy to find and very Estonian.
- When people eat
- Lunch around noon and dinner between 6 and 8. Lunch menus at set prices are common on weekdays.
- Tipping
- Rounding up or about 5 to 10 percent for good service is usual in a sit-down restaurant.
- Where to eat well
- Our Tallinn food guide names the places, each checked against a source.
What to eat in Estonia
- MulgipuderA mash of potatoes and barley groats, served with crisp pork or bacon and sometimes sour cream. Often called a national dish, and a traditional dish on Christmas tables.Mulgimaa, southern Estonia
- Rye bread (leib)Dense, dark and slightly sour, and eaten with most meals. Try it with butter, cheese or smoked fish at a bakery or restaurant.Nationwide
- VerivorstBlood sausage with barley, usually served with lingonberry jam and sauerkraut at Christmas. It is easy to find in winter.Nationwide
- KamaA fine flour of roasted grains and peas, usually stirred into kefir or yoghurt for a breakfast or dessert. Many shops sell it in packets.Nationwide
- KohukeA small chocolate-coated curd snack, sold in shops and cafes. A cheap, sweet bite for the road.Nationwide
- KiluvõileibAn open sandwich of rye bread, spiced sprats, egg and onion. A snack that goes well with a beer.Nationwide
- RosoljeA salad of beetroot, herring, potato and egg dressed with sour cream. Common at buffets and festive tables.Nationwide
- SültJellied pork, served cold with mustard or horseradish. An old Christmas and festive dish, now found in markets and restaurants.Nationwide
- HapukapsasSauerkraut, served as a side dish with pork and sausage or stewed with meat. It is a winter staple.Nationwide
- Smoked and salted fishBaltic herring, sprats and fresh fish from the sea and lakes, smoked, salted or fried. Look for them at harbor stalls and markets.The coasts
How the food changes across Estonia
Tallinn and the north coast
The capital has the widest range, from old-style Estonian kitchens to modern restaurants cooking with local ingredients. Coastal villages serve more fish.
Southern Estonia
Farm country with pork, potatoes, barley and dairy, and home of mulgipuder. Tartu has a student-led café and bakery scene.
The islands
Saaremaa and Hiiumaa are known for lamb, smoked fish, rye bread and small local producers. A summer trip for slow lunches.
Ida-Viru County in the north-east
Russian-influenced cooking, with pies, pelmeni and fish from Lake Peipus and the coast. Narva is the best-known stop.
What to drink in Estonia
- BeerLocal lagers and a growing craft scene. A pint is the usual drink with a rye bread snack.
- Vana TallinnA dark, sweet rum liqueur with citrus and spices, drunk as a shot, over ice or in coffee. A common souvenir.
- KaliA mildly fermented rye bread drink, similar to kvass. Sold in supermarkets and served in many restaurants.
- Hot mulled wine (hõõgvein)Served in winter and at Christmas markets, often with spices, raisins and almonds.
Where to eat in Estonia, city by city
Tallinn
A walled medieval old town above the Baltic, with a modern harbor, design shops and a lively food scene around it. It suits couples, history lovers and anyone who wants a compact city with a short ferry ride from Helsinki.
Order Mulgipuder
How Estonia eats
- Meal timesLunch around noon and dinner between 6 and 8. Kitchens in Tallinn often close by 10 in the evening.
- CoffeeA daily habit, with plenty of independent cafes in Tallinn and Tartu. Many serve pastries and a light lunch.
- ReservationsBook dinner at popular restaurants a week or two ahead for weekends. Lunch spots usually take walk-ins.
- TippingRounding up or about 5 to 10 percent for good service is usual. It is not mandatory.
Signs of a place to walk past
Staff in costume handing out menus in the old town squares.
Menus with photographs of every dish and a long list in six languages.
A 'traditional Estonian' menu that is mostly burgers and pizza.
Rye bread and pastries that look dry and have sat out all afternoon.
Food in Estonia: questions people ask
What food is Estonia known for?
Rye bread, mulgipuder, blood sausage, Baltic herring and sprats, and kama. Dishes tend to be hearty, simple and based on pork, potatoes and dairy.
What is the national dish of Estonia?
Mulgipuder, a barley and potato mash with pork, is often named as a national dish. Rye bread is the staple most people eat every day.
What is kama?
A flour made from roasted grains and peas, stirred into kefir or yoghurt for breakfast or dessert. It has a nutty, toasted flavor.
What do Estonians eat for breakfast?
Rye bread with cheese, ham or smoked fish, porridge, eggs, and yoghurt with berries. Coffee or tea is the usual drink.
Is food expensive in Estonia?
It costs less than in the Nordic countries. Lunch set menus are good value, and the old town's squares cost most.
Do you tip in Estonia?
Rounding up or about 5 to 10 percent for good service is usual in sit-down restaurants. It is not mandatory.
Can vegetarians eat well in Estonia?
Yes, in the cities. Tallinn and Tartu have many vegetarian and vegan kitchens, and most restaurants offer a meat-free main. Traditional dishes lean heavily on pork, so ask.