Austrian food: what to eat in Austria, dish by dish
Austrian food is hearty, shaped by the Habsburg empire and by Alpine farms. Vienna brings schnitzel, boiled beef and pastry, the west brings cheese dumplings and mountain-hut dishes, and the south brings pumpkin seed oil. Coffee and cake are part of the day, not an add-on. Eat the main meal at midday if you can.
The short answer
- Order this first
- Wiener schnitzel, then Kaiserschmarrn for something sweet. After that, try Tafelspitz in Vienna or Käsespätzle in the Alps.
- When people eat
- Lunch is the main meal, from about midday. Dinner is usually between 6 and 8pm, and kitchens in small towns can close early.
- Tipping
- Round up or add 5 to 10 per cent. Say the total you want when you hand over the card, and don't leave coins on the table.
- Where to eat well
- A traditional inn, called a Gasthaus, or a Beisl in Vienna, is the place for classic dishes. For the dishes in a specific city, use that city's food guide.
What to eat in Austria
- Wiener schnitzelA thin veal cutlet, breaded and fried, served with a lemon wedge and potato salad or parsley potatoes. By tradition it must be veal to carry the name, and a pork version is sold as Schnitzel Wiener Art.Vienna
- TafelspitzBoiled beef served in broth with horseradish, apple sauce and chive sauce. It is a classic Viennese lunch dish and a quiet one.Vienna
- KaiserschmarrnA thick pancake torn into pieces, dusted with icing sugar and served with fruit compote. It is common in cafés and mountain huts.All of Austria
- ApfelstrudelThin pastry rolled around apples, raisins and cinnamon, served warm with vanilla sauce or cream. Find it in coffee houses.Vienna
- KäsespätzleSmall egg noodles baked with mountain cheese and topped with fried onions. It is the dish to order in an Alpine hut.Tyrol and Vorarlberg
- Tiroler GröstlFried potatoes with bacon or beef and onions, topped with a fried egg. A walker's dish, often served in a pan.Tyrol
- Salzburger NockerlA fluffy baked soufflé of egg whites, usually made to share and served with a dusting of sugar. It takes time to cook, so expect a wait.Salzburg
- KnödelDumplings made from bread, semolina or potato, either savory with speck and cheese or sweet with plums. They come in soup or on their own with salad.Alpine regions
- SachertorteA dense chocolate cake with apricot jam and a glossy chocolate glaze, served with unsweetened cream. It is best with a coffee.Vienna
- LeberknödelsuppeClear beef broth with a liver dumpling. A common starter on traditional menus, and better than it sounds.All of Austria
How the food changes across Austria
Vienna and the east
Imperial cooking: schnitzel, boiled beef, goulash and pastries. Coffee houses and wine taverns, called Heurigen, are part of daily life.
Salzburg and the lakes
Freshwater fish from the lakes, pastry, and sweet dishes such as Salzburger Nockerl. Mozart-themed sweets are everywhere, and some are better than others.
Tyrol and the west
Mountain food: cheese dumplings, speck, Gröstl and noodles. Dishes are simple and filling, and portions are large.
Styria and the south
Pumpkin seed oil, drizzled over salads, soups and even ice cream, and a region of wine and orchards.
What to drink in Austria
- CoffeeOrder by name: a melange is a milky coffee, an einspänner has whipped cream, and a kleiner schwarzer is a small black. Coffee houses expect you to stay.
- Grüner VeltlinerAustria's best-known white wine, dry and peppery, widely served in Vienna and the Wachau.
- Heuriger wineNew wine from the current year, served at tavern-style places in and around Vienna. Look for a pine branch hung over the door.
- BeerLager is the default, and small breweries are common in towns and mountain areas. Ask for a Seidel for a small glass or a Krügerl for a larger one.
- SchnapsFruit brandy made from pears, apricots or herbs, offered after a heavy meal. Drink it slowly.
Where to eat in Austria, city by city
Vienna
The capital: imperial palaces, museums, coffee houses and a serious opera and concert calendar. It suits first-timers, art and history lovers and anyone who likes to sit in a café.
Order Wiener Schnitzel
Salzburg
A small baroque old town under a fortress, with Mozart's birthplace and mountains at the edge of town. It suits a short break, music fans and anyone who wants a walkable city.
Order Salzburger Nockerl
Innsbruck
An Alpine city of about 130,000 people with cable cars that rise from the center to the peaks. It suits walkers and skiers who still want a proper old town in the evening.
Order Kaspressknödel
How Austria eats
- Meal timesLunch is the main meal from about midday, and dinner is usually early, between 6 and 8pm. In smaller towns, kitchens may close by 9pm.
- Coffee and cakeA coffee house is not a quick stop. You order one drink, stay as long as you like, and the bill comes when you ask for it.
- ReservationsBook for dinner in Vienna and Salzburg, especially at weekends, and for popular mountain huts in season. A traditional inn at lunch rarely needs one.
- TippingRound up or add 5 to 10 per cent. Say the total when you pay, and don't leave coins on the table.
- SundayMany shops are shut on Sundays, and some restaurants in small towns close on one weekday. Check opening days before you plan a meal.
Signs of a place to walk past
A menu in six languages with photographs of every dish, on a square beside a main sight.
A street-side schnitzel that is far larger than the plate and costs less than the tourist-area coffee next door.
A restaurant staffed by someone calling people in from the pavement.
A "Mozart" or "Sissi" menu that is more about the name than the cooking.
Food in Austria: questions people ask
What food is Austria known for?
Wiener schnitzel, Tafelspitz, Kaiserschmarrn, strudel and Sachertorte are the best known. In the Alps, Käsespätzle and dumplings are common, and coffee and cake are part of daily life.
What is traditional Austrian food?
Hearty dishes made from meat, flour, cheese and potatoes: schnitzel, boiled beef, dumplings, noodles and pancakes. Desserts such as strudel and Sachertorte come from the Habsburg tradition.
What should I eat in Vienna?
Wiener schnitzel, Tafelspitz, Apfelstrudel and Sachertorte, with a coffee in a traditional coffee house. The Vienna food guide has the places.
Is Austrian food good for vegetarians?
Somewhat. Käsespätzle, Kaiserschmarrn, cheese dumplings and soups are meat-free. Many traditional dishes use meat or lard, so ask about the stock in soups.
Is Wiener schnitzel always veal?
In Austria the name is protected for veal. Pork is sold as Schnitzel Wiener Art, and a menu should say which one you are getting.
What do Austrians eat for breakfast?
Bread rolls with butter, jam, cheese and ham, coffee, and sometimes a soft-boiled egg. Hotel breakfasts are large, and bakeries open early.
Do you tip in Austria?
Yes, by rounding up or adding 5 to 10 per cent. Say the total you want when you pay.