Where to eat in San Sebastián: pintxos, txuleta and what to order
San Sebastián eats standing up. The old town bars lay out pintxos on the counter, you order a small drink and a bite, and move on. Sit-down meals are grilled fish and txuleta steak. Book dinner; walk in for pintxos.
The short answer
- Best area to eat
- The Parte Vieja for the classic bars, Gros for newer places, and the Centro for sit-down meals.
- Order this
- A gilda, a hot pintxo from the kitchen blackboard, and a glass of txakoli.
- When to eat
- Pintxo bars fill from 13:00 and 20:00. Kitchens at sit-down restaurants open at 13:30 and 20:30.
- Book or walk in
- Walk in at most pintxo bars. Book txuleta, tasting menus and cider houses in advance.
- Tipping
- Not expected. Round up the bill or leave a euro or two for good service.
What to eat in San Sebastián
- PintxosSmall bites on bread or a cocktail stick, laid out on the bar or cooked to order. Take a plate, tell the barman what you ate, and pay at the end.
- GildaAn olive, an anchovy and a pickled guindilla pepper on a skewer. The original pintxo, sharp, salty and eaten in one bite.
- Tortilla de patatasSpanish potato omelette, in the best bars cooked loose in the middle. The famous bars make only a few a day.
- TxuletaA thick rib steak from an older cow, cooked over coals and sold by weight, usually to share.
- Bacalao al pil pilSalt cod in a thick sauce of olive oil, garlic and the fish's own gelatine.
- KokotxasThe soft cheek-throat of hake or cod, cooked in green sauce or pil pil, a delicate Basque treat.
- TxangurroSpider crab cooked and served in its shell, with tomato and brandy. Usually a main course or a hot pintxo.
- Basque cheesecakeA creamy cheesecake baked until the top is dark and burnt, soft inside. A local invention now sold worldwide.
Where to eat in San Sebastián, by neighborhood
Parte Vieja
The old town has the highest density of pintxo bars in Spain. Try the side streets, Calle 31 de Agosto, Calle Fermín Calbetón and Calle San Jerónimo, and avoid the squares. It is crowded and loud from 20:00.
Gros
Across the Urumea river, near Zurriola beach. Neighborhood bars, newer kitchens and a younger crowd. Cheaper and easier to find a seat than in the old town.
Centro and Área Romántica
The grid between the old town and La Concha. Quieter, with sit-down restaurants, bakeries and cafés. Good for a calmer lunch or dinner.
Places worth a booking or a queue
-
Ganbara
€€Pintxo bar · Parte Vieja
OrderSeasonal mushrooms and the egg yolk pintxo
A family bar since 1984 with a counter piled with pintxos and a cellar dining room. Mushrooms are the draw from October to December.
- Book
- Walk in at the bar, book the cellar directly
- Closed
- Monday and Sunday
Confirmed open: guide.michelin.com
-
Bar Nestor
€€€Bar · Parte Vieja
OrderTortilla de patatas and txuleta
A small standing bar with a tiny menu. The tortilla is made only a couple of times a day and sells out, so ask for one when you arrive.
- Book
- Put your name on the list before opening, or phone for the tortilla
- Closed
- Check before you go, as listed days differ
Confirmed open: theinfatuation.com
-
Bar Txepetxa
€Anchovy bar · Parte Vieja
OrderMarinated anchovies on bread
A bar on Calle Pescadería that specializes in anchovies, served on bread with a range of toppings. A good first stop.
- Book
- Walk in
Confirmed open: tablejourney.com
-
La Cuchara de San Telmo
€€Pintxo bar · Parte Vieja
OrderHot pintxos from the blackboard
A small bar behind San Telmo Museoa that cooks modern Basque pintxos to order. Expect a squeeze and a short wait.
- Book
- Walk in and wait for space
Confirmed open: tablejourney.com
Food markets in San Sebastián
- Mercado de la BretxaThe old town market, now a mix of fish, meat and cheese stalls on the lower floor above a shopping center. Buy fresh fish, ham and Idiazabal cheese.Monday to Saturday, morning to evening, closed SundaySource: tablejourney.com
- Mercado San MartínA market hall on the edge of the center, with fish, meat, vegetables and a food court. Easy to reach on foot from the center.Monday to Saturday, morning to evening, closed SundaySource: tablejourney.com
How San Sebastián eats
- Pintxo etiquetteStand at the bar, order a drink first, take plates from the counter or order hot ones, and pay at the end. Do not bring a table of eight.
- Meal timesLunch is from about 13:30 to 15:30, dinner from 20:30. Bars fill early in the evening for the first round.
- DrinksA zurito is a small beer, a txikito a small wine, and txakoli is the local white poured from height. Cider is served in cider houses.
- TippingNot expected. Round up or leave a euro or two.
- ReservationsBook sit-down restaurants and cider houses. Pintxo bars do not take bookings.
Signs of a place to walk past
Menus with photos of the dishes on the door.
A counter of cold pintxos that nobody touches and that stays the same all evening.
A tout on the pavement of the old town squares offering paella.
Eating in San Sebastián: questions people ask
What food is San Sebastián known for?
Pintxos, the small bites on the bar counters of the old town. Grilled fish, txuleta steak, salt cod and Basque cheesecake are the other names to know.
Where is the best place to eat pintxos in San Sebastián?
The Parte Vieja has the most bars. Ganbara, Bar Txepetxa and La Cuchara de San Telmo are three well-known ones, and Gros is calmer and less crowded.
Do you need to book restaurants in San Sebastián?
For sit-down restaurants and cider houses, yes. For pintxo bars, no, as most do not take bookings. Walk in and stand at the counter.
How does pintxo ordering work?
Take a plate, pick what you want from the counter or order hot dishes from the blackboard, and tell the barman at the end. Pay once, as you leave.
How much do you tip in San Sebastián?
Not expected. Round up the bill, or leave a euro or two for good service.
Is San Sebastián expensive for food?
More than most Spanish cities, but pintxos are good value. Three or four at the bar, with a drink each, can be a full meal.
Where can vegetarians eat in San Sebastián?
Pintxo bars have tortilla, mushrooms, peppers and cheese, and many restaurants offer a vegetarian dish. Strictly meat-free places are fewer, so check menus.